Follow These Steps to Remove Shimano Pedals Yourself Easily!
Remove a Shimano right pedal counterclockwise and left pedal clockwise, using the model's specified tool. Follow the safe sequence and stuck-pedal checks.

To remove Shimano pedals, turn the right pedal counterclockwise and the left pedal clockwise when viewed from the outside of each crank. Use the wrench flats or internal hex fitting specified for that exact pedal model. The left pedal has a reverse thread.
Stop if the tool does not seat fully, the crank is cracked, the pedal axle is bent, or the crank threads begin to pull out. A slipping wrench can cause a hand injury or damage an aluminum crank.
Identify the pedal and tool
Find the Shimano model number on the pedal and check its manual at Shimano Product Information. Depending on the model, removal may require:
- A 15mm pedal wrench on the axle flats
- A 6mm or 8mm hex wrench inserted from the back of the crank
- A model-specific service procedure for the pedal body or axle unit
Do not confuse removing the complete pedal from the crank with disassembling the pedal bearings. Shimano’s pedal dealer manuals contain model-specific installation and maintenance instructions.
Remember the thread directions
From the outside of the bike:
- Right, drive-side pedal: loosens counterclockwise and tightens clockwise
- Left, non-drive-side pedal: loosens clockwise and tightens counterclockwise
The simple removal memory aid is that both pedal spindles loosen when turned toward the back of the bike, provided you are viewing and turning from the outside. If you use an internal hex key from behind the crank, the apparent wrench direction can be confusing. Think about how the pedal axle itself must turn, not only how the wrench handle moves.
Park Tool’s pedal removal and installation guide illustrates both wrench positions and the different left and right threads.
Tools and preparation
You may need:
- The correct pedal wrench or hex wrench
- A stable repair stand or a safe way to hold the bike
- Gloves and eye protection
- Penetrating oil for a corroded thread, if compatible
- Grease or the assembly compound specified for reinstallation
- A torque wrench and suitable bit for reinstallation
Shift the chain onto the largest front chainring before working near it. The chain then covers more of the sharp teeth. Keep your knuckles out of the path of the chainring and frame.
Step 1: Remove the right pedal
Support the bicycle so it cannot fall. Rotate the right crank to a position where the wrench can seat fully and you can apply controlled force.
Place the tool on or in the pedal axle. Check it is straight and fully engaged. Turn the right pedal axle counterclockwise when viewed from the right side of the bicycle.
Once it breaks free, continue by hand if possible. Support the pedal so its weight does not damage the final crank threads.
Step 2: Remove the left pedal
Move to the left side and seat the tool fully. Turn the left pedal axle clockwise when viewed from the left side.
The reverse thread prevents normal pedaling forces from loosening the pedal, but it also makes this the step most often forced in the wrong direction. Stop and recheck the direction if resistance increases.
If the pedal is stuck
Do not jump on the wrench, strike a carbon crank, or heat the crank without manufacturer approval.
Instead:
- Confirm you are turning the correct direction.
- Confirm the tool matches the fitting and is fully seated.
- Reposition the crank and wrench for better mechanical advantage.
- Apply steady, controlled force while protecting your hands.
- If corrosion is likely, use only a compatible penetrating product and allow it time to work.
- Stop if the fitting rounds, the crank flexes abnormally, or the threads move with the pedal.
Our stuck-pedal removal guide covers escalation options and stop conditions. A bike shop can hold the crank safely and assess whether the threads remain usable.
Inspect the parts after removal
Wipe the pedal and crank threads clean. Look for:
- Flattened, torn, or missing threads
- Cross-threading
- Cracks around the crank eye
- Corrosion or galling
- A bent pedal spindle
- Rough or loose pedal bearings
Do not reinstall a damaged pedal or crank. Thread repair requires the correct tap direction and size, and missing material may require a professional insert or crank replacement.
Reinstalling Shimano pedals
Identify the L and R markings before starting. Apply the lubricant or assembly product specified by Shimano and the crank maker.
Start each pedal entirely by hand:
- Thread the right pedal clockwise into the right crank.
- Thread the left pedal counterclockwise into the left crank.
- Stop immediately if either pedal binds during the first turns.
- Tighten with the specified tool to the torque in the exact pedal and crank instructions.
Never use the wrench to force the first threads. A pedal that does not turn in smoothly is probably misaligned or on the wrong side.
If your pedals use an internal hex, our guide to removing pedals with an Allen wrench explains the tool orientation. For replacement options, see our current mountain-bike pedal guide.
Frequently asked questions
Which way do Shimano pedals unscrew?
Viewed from outside the crank, the right pedal unscrews counterclockwise and the left pedal unscrews clockwise.
Do all Shimano pedals use an 8mm hex wrench?
No. Tool fittings differ by model. Some use wrench flats, and internal hex sizes can vary. Identify the model and use its Shimano dealer manual.
Why will the left pedal not loosen?
First confirm you are turning it clockwise when viewed from the left side. Then check tool engagement, corrosion, and whether the crank or fitting is damaged. Stop before rounding the fitting.
Bottom line
Use the exact Shimano manual and a fully seated tool. The right pedal loosens counterclockwise; the left pedal loosens clockwise. Apply controlled force, protect your hands, and stop if the tool, crank, or threads show damage.


